Rae Lakes Loop,  Kings Canyon National Park

(July 2 - July 6th 2005)

5 Days      40 miles      

After celebrating my brother's wedding it was off to the hills of Kings Canyon National Park.  This backpacking trip would be our longest to date at 40 miles and 5 days with an elevation gain beginning at 5000ft at the trailhead to the top of Glen Pass at 12,000.  I was curious how we would hold out over the days and what this foreign national park had to bring.  Before leaving on the trip I read about this loop from a multitude of sources saying how it was an amazing and one of the most acclaimed loop trails in the Sierras.  Certainly, we were not disappointed.  Anyone that wants to experience a little bit of everything the Sierras has to offer should backpack this loop.  Kings Canyon National Park is a backpackers dream come true.  No roads to access it.  Only large mountain passes that separate the weekend backpackers from the rest.

Day 1- We packed up the car camp at Sheep's creek and headed for the trailhead.  We ate a quick breakfast and talked with the ranger as he wrote our permit.  It was a bit smokey that morning from a nearby fire and I was nervous that a portion of trail might be closed.  I got the permit months before and I could not imagine having to cancel.  Thankfully we were "ok".  I then looked at the bulletin board an read the posted notes to backpackers.  Listed as:   1) Treacherous river crossing at Paradise Valley  2) Mosquitoes are blooming with the flowers, don't be a blood donor  3) 50% of Glen Pass is under snow, boots with gaiters advised.  Reading this was not encouraging, but I thought, "hey adventure is what we are here for." 

The first two miles of the trail reminded me so much of Yosemite.  The huge granite walls rising on both sides with a forested floor.  My backpack was quite a load ( bear can and 5 days of food is not light!) but my new backpack thankfully carried the weight like an extension of my body. My new camel back is also wonderful- allowing me to sip cool water as I hike.  I find I drink more water with it too because it is so convenient.  About a mile later  the trail split in two and we headed left towards Paradise Valley to begin the loop.  In the car the day before Sam said, " I am not putting that chemical (Deet) on my body."  Soon later we were in a marshy section and were then swarmed with mosquitoes.  In Less than 30 seconds........Sam was lathering her arms and legs with the stuff.  I must say 35% Deet lotion by 3M does work really well.  Really really well.

  The trail then started its ascent upwards.  It was a peaceful trail running along the violent river.  Then we arrived at mist falls.  The mist blown up into the air was like a gift from the Gods cooling down us hot hikers.  We headed up to the top of the falls and found a slab directly above where it drops off to have lunch at.  It was a dangerous spot.  One slip forward and see you later alligator.  We were low on water so I pumped out a liter with my feet at the edge.  Smiling as I thought this is probably the most dangerous spot to pump water in the whole Sierra Nevada, but the view was worth every once.  The PB and J's did the trick and we continued.

 Knowing we would be doing a total of 1900 ft of elevation gain total for the day I knew it would mellow out soon.  And it did.  A crystal clear river surrounded by trees and mountains on all sides appeared.  It was so calming after the falls and steep rocky trail.  We we at Paradise valley.  You must stay at designated camp sites and we set our goal at upper Paradise valley.  We took another break at a little pebble beach and got snacks and a bit more water.  Running into a couple on the trail they asked how long to middle paradise.  I gave them an estimate and then asked how far to upper paradise.  He said about 1 hr 45 min.  Sam and I were starting to feel the days burden and continued on the trail.  About a half hour later we ran into a ranger.  After asking about the fire and thunder storms he commented that upper paradise was about 8 minutes ahead while we were thinking we had an hour to go!  Those other hikers must have been hot/tired. 

Camp at Upper Paradise.  A nice spot among the trees and a quaint river flowing by the doorstep.

2 pks ramen, 1 pk sealed chicken, freeze dried veggies.  Good but a bit salty.  It is now 8 PM as I write.  Looking out the tent their is 2 deer that are like 20 ft away checking things out.  We were tired and did not have a fire and got ready for bed.  My shoulder is a bit sore from the hike for some reason and I hope it feels better in the morning for tomorrows hike.

Total days miles- 9 Mi    Elevation Gain- 1800ft    Time 8:30-3:30

Day 2  Paradise Valley to Woods Creek

We slept in and were in no hurry to hit the trail.  I felt good and ready to explore further up the valley.  For breakfast we had oatmeal, but added freeze dried strawberries and they were amazing.  We were the last ones to break camp from the 3 other groups at upper paradise.  No rush, it would be one of the shorter days.

The hiking was steep gaining elevation at a steady rate from our camp below. 

  We then reached a strange gate in the middle of the trail?  The views then opened up looking deeper into the valley to a beautiful Sierra valley with the domes on the left.  Meadow on the bottom, with a crystal clear river flowing through.  And big mountains in the distance. That's where we were headed.  Sam had a bee incident.  The damn thing kept buzzing around her for about a quarter mile.  I would hear her yell, turn around, and then see her try to karate chop the bee no no avail.  It was quite funny until he came after me.

Can you find me?  I told Sam, I am going to walk down to that fine piece of trail then snap the shot ok.  We continued through the Castle Domes Meadow.

We walked along the side of the Castle Domes seen here.  A massive chunk of overhanging granite rising 3000 feet above the valley floor. Once you see it after coming out of the forested woods you think, "damn thats some piece of rock!"

After the meadow the trail once again headed up, I knew we were close after meeting up with the John Muir trail marker.  From here we   would follow it south for the next 2 days.  Soon after the "Golden Gate of the Sierra Nevada" spanned above.  We crossed one person at a time as it bounced up/down with each step.  We set up camp just up stream within sight of the bridge.  We were the last group to leave Paradise, but the first group up so we got to pick out a good spot.  Getting in early in the afternoon we had the rest of the day to enjoy doing whatever.

While pumping water I saw that it would make the perfect little pool for a dip.  I stripped down and took the plunge and boy was it cold.  It did feel good to get the dirt/deet off.  It felt great having time to just hang out at camp after the and we did some reading in the tent.  As the sun started to set I walked around a bit to take some pictures.

I made the perfect fire as we ate tuna noodle casserole.  It got the thumbs up from me.  Our meals were turning out fantastic. We were surrounded by peaks and the sound of the river and had a relaxing evening as the sun went over the surrounding granite walls.

Time hiking 10:30- 2:15 PM

Day 3  Woods Creek to Rae Lakes      Miles- 7  2250 ft Ascent

today we got up a t 7AM so we could reach Rae  Lakes early and enjoy it for most of the day.  It felt good to be on the trail by 8:30 with the air being so crisp and cool.  It was a steady climb, but a well groomed trail.

After a short steep section we arrived at Dollar Lake and saw our first look at Fin Dome in the distance.  This mountain was a good marker knowing that Rae Lakes was just past it.

Just above Dollar Lake their was a meandering stream through a green meadow.  It was a heavenly welcome to the valley.  I can imagine that this is some of the best scenery the JMT has to offer, and even the world.

We made it to the 1sst Rae Lake at 12:00 noon after 31/2 hrs of hiking.  We had lunch at the shore and could not keep our eyes off the peaks.  The lake was nestled at the end of a beautiful Sierra valley.  This valley was a place hard to describe and one of those places where you just sit back and take it in.

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