Kalalau Trail

Na Pali Coast, Kauai

Distance:      22 Miles     

Time:             2 Days

Overview:  The kalalau trail is Hawaii's premier backpacking trail.  It is located on the Na Pali coast line  on the north coast of Kauai.  "Na Pali" in Hawaiian means the cliffs and they indeed are impressive rising straight up out of the ocean.  The ancient Hawaiians  lived in these valleys and used this footpath to  travel.  The trail is not easy by any means and is full of eroded switchbacks, scree slopes, and traverses shear cliffs. It is about a 6 hour hike of total focus, and LOTS of elevation gain/loss. I would only recommend this trail for the hardcore, prepared backpacker, that enjoys a long hard day.   As the trail guide states, "A heartbreaking trail, both beautiful and brutal." But like many things in life, it's carrot at the end of the stick - this carrot ends at one of the most idyllic beaches in the Pacific Islands.

 The plan was to begin our vacation with the backpacking trip, then spend the rest of the time on the beach for some much needed R and R - Mai Tai in hand.  5:30 AM we got up early and got a cab ride to the trailhead.  Just the first 200 yards it became apparent that this would be a long 11 miles to Kalalau beach

 Trying to get in some miles before the sun hit, the trail winds along the coast through some lush tropical gardens.

No shortage of Hawaiian style views. Looking down the coast it all looks so rugged. Hard to tell where the trail goes from here.

 About 4 miles in Sam tripped and went head over heals - Ending up with some nasty scraps.  And it got worse for her after getting back up. The trail narrowed to about a foot in width with lots of exposure. She was not enjoying herself- quite terrified on these frequent sections.  A decision was made to turn around here opposed to hiking farther where the "dicey" section towards the end of the day was still to come.  Marc and Mik continued on as Sam and I made our way back 5 miles to the trailhead.  Back at the beach we had no problems finding a ride back to the condo from a newlywed couple.

The next morning, I was up at it again. Now my 3rd time hiking the first 5 miles of this trail in 24 hrs.

 I rounded a bend and ... a glimpse of Hanakoa valley. Wow. When you are not traversing along the cliffs you are taken into dense jungle valleys.  Waterfalls can be seen cascading down the mountains high above.

 This is the section known as "crawlers corner" - named by the frequent number of people who have to get on all fours.  Very exposed, no vegetation, and some crummy rock. Most of the trail especially this section require 100% of your attention with every step.

Helicopters are a frequent sound overhead.  I was at this time sweating more than I ever had in my life and felt like I stepped out of a steamer with all my clothes on

It was exciting, the end was now in sight.  I had lunch looking down on Kalalau beach, now only 2 miles away.  No question this was one of the most scenic lunch spots ever. Blue ocean stretching forever on one side with the Kalalau Valley on the other.

Rolled onto the beach by noon, and was more than ready to spend the rest of the day on the beach and in the water.  An awesome feeling after such a physical accomplishment.

 Mik and Marc seen here at our camp cave, shade from the sun and oh so close to the water.  It was wonderful to take frequent dips and we had the whole end section of the beach to ourselves.

The beach radiates quite a powerful sense of place. The pull that keeps the locals living out here is easily felt.  I would say there are more than 50 people living off the land, hiding from rangers, and have made this place home. 

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