Overview: The kalalau trail is Hawaii's premier backpacking trail. It is located on the Na Pali coast line on the north coast of Kauai. "Na Pali" in Hawaiian means the cliffs and they indeed are impressive rising straight up out of the ocean. The ancient Hawaiians lived in these valleys and used this footpath to travel. The trail is not easy by any means and is full of eroded switchbacks, scree slopes, and traverses shear cliffs. It is about a 6 hour hike of total focus, and LOTS of elevation gain/loss. I would only recommend this trail for the hardcore, prepared backpacker, that enjoys a long hard day. As the trail guide states, "A heartbreaking trail, both beautiful and brutal." But like many things in life, it's carrot at the end of the stick - this carrot ends at one of the most idyllic beaches in the Pacific Islands. Movie: Kalalau Trail
The plan was to begin our vacation with the backpacking trip, then spend the rest of the time on the beach for some much needed R and R - Mai Tai in hand. 5:30 AM we got up early and got a cab ride to the trailhead. Just the first 200 yards it became apparent that this would be a long 11 miles to Kalalau beach The
Trying to get in some miles before the sun hit, the trail winds along the coast through some lush tropical gardens.
A few miles in near Hanakapiani beach.
No shortage of Hawaiian style views. Looking down the coast it all looks so rugged. Hard to tell where the trail goes from here.
About 4 miles in Sam tripped and went head over heals - Ending up with some nasty scraps. And it got worse for her after getting back up. The trail narrowed to about a foot in width with lots of exposure. She was not enjoying herself- quite terrified on these frequent sections. A decision was made to turn around here opposed to hiking farther where the "dicey" section towards the end of the day was still to come. Marc and Mik continued on as Sam and I made our way back 5 miles to the trailhead. Back at the beach we had no problems finding a ride back to the condo from a newlywed couple.
The next morning, I was up at it again. Now my 3rd time hiking the first 5 miles of this trail in 24 hrs.
When glancing to the right - here's what you see along much of the trail - a shear cliff to the waters below
I rounded a bend and ... a glimpse of Hanakoa valley. Wow. When you are not traversing along the cliffs you are taken into dense jungle valleys. Waterfalls can be seen cascading down the mountains high above.
This is the section known as "crawlers corner" - named by the frequent number of people who have to get on all fours. Very exposed, no vegetation, and some crummy rock. Most of the trail especially this section require 100% of your attention with every step.
Helicopters are a frequent sound overhead. I was at this time sweating more than I ever had in my life and felt like I stepped out of a steamer with all my clothes on
It was exciting, the end was now in sight. I had lunch looking down on Kalalau beach, now only 2 miles away. No question this was one of the most scenic lunch spots ever. Blue ocean stretching forever on one side with the Kalalau Valley on the other.
Rolled onto the beach by noon, and was more than ready to spend the rest of the day on the beach and in the water. An awesome feeling after such a physical accomplishment.
Mik and Marc seen here at our camp cave, shade from the sun and oh so close to the water. It was wonderful to take frequent dips and we had the whole end section of the beach to ourselves.
The beach radiates quite a powerful sense of place. The pull that keeps the locals living out here is easily felt. I would say there are more than 50 people living off the land, hiding from rangers, and have made this place home.
Marc and Mik had a fiasco when a grip of wind got hold of their tent on the beach, luckily we got it before getting swept out to sea. That night we slept in a cave that ran along the beach. That night I saw 6 shooting stars as we slept half under our cave. Close to the water the sound of the waves would wake me as soon as I was about to doze off.
Mik talking with some other travelers on the beach arranged a boat ride out for tomorrows return trip. 11 miles of hard work now would cost us just $30. I was also looking forward to seeing the coastline from the water. This also allowed the next morning to be mellow. We had breakfast, followed by a dip, then continued our ever constant gaze into the Pacific.
The boat ride made us feel very small next to the cliffs. Goats were clinging to the walls and it was stunning what they could walk across. One section we were even taken under a waterfall for a cool down. Then into a cave. Quite a ride. Swells were about 4 ft and hit a few rough sections but he said this was nothing. We passed lots of kayakers and it looked cool, but the ocean was definitely far from a smooth ride. Pulling up to Hanakoa beach Mik jumps out and is up to her neck in water as we jump in behind her. Our captain throws the packs to us from the water.
Marc mentioned that all the hassles of a backcountry trip like this, especially in Hawaii, could send him into retirement from backcountry travel. One thing I must say is that I don't think you could have picked a better 11 miles of trail to go out on! We had no cell reception at the trailhead and could not contact Sam for a pick-up. We were stranded on Ke'e beach. Looking around with a smile..... Oh.. life could be worse I thought.
|
|
