John Muir Trail

  Sierra Nevada, California

  Distance:  233 miles

  Time:  19 days

Overview:  The John Muir Trail, it is known as one of the most inspiring and scenic treks in the Sierra Nevada mountains if not the world.  It runs 220 miles along the crest of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range.  It starts in Yosemite Valley and culminates at highest point in the continental U.S., the 14,496 ft summit of Mt. Whitney.  The trail travels the length of 3 national parks, one national monument, and two wilderness areas.  Traveling North to South the trail passes through mile after mile of scenic high country with many passes to overcome.  Over the coarse of the trail we ascended a total of 46,700 ft, over 1 1/2 times the height of Mt. Everest.  The trek was not to see how long we could live off freeze dried food.  Nope... It was time to become fully immersed for 19 days in this mountainous range John Muir called, "The Range of Light."

Due to being one week late for the permit application a few months back in March, I would have to try for a walk-up permit.  I was up at the permit office over 2 hrs early at 5:30 AM.  Two groups of JMTers already were there. The permit station opened at 8 and I soon had the 19 day permit in hand, we would be leaving tomorrow.  We spent the rest of the day biking around the valley and enjoyed the craziness of Camp Curry.

Day 1

Yosemite Valley to Half-Dome

"It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter." ~ John Muir

As we drove to the trailhead Half Dome shot straight up above, that's where we were heading.  We were on our way with the first steps of the hike and soon ran into the others that also got walk up permits the previous day, Steve, Matt and Dave.  It was a low snow year and little water was coming off Nevada Falls. The good of this lack of water is that I saw one mosquito the whole day.

 The view of half dome before reaching the chains looks like a vertical climb.  Sam and I grabbed a pair of gloves and started up.  About 1/3 of the way up Sam turned around.  She needed more time to watch other people do it before gaining the confidence. I came back down after taking a brief look at the top and said, "Are you sure you don't want to give it 1 more go?"  Sure enough Sam flew up the chains with no problem. 

Views were fabulous as expected even with smoke filling the valley from a burn.  I just finishing hiking down from the chains when I came upon a group and said, "Damn, I'm smashed after that."  One of them then sarcastically says, "Ya and you only got 8 miles to go."  I then corrected him, " At this point I got about 205 miles to go."  We hiked another 2 miles past the JMT/Half dome junction.  We worried for a bit that we would not be able to find any water.  The first creek we crossed was bone dry.  Finally I found a spot and set up camp and then my spirits dropped.... I did  not have the top to my fuel bottle.  I bought a larger bottle for the trip and did not transfer over the pump top.  Luckily there were some campers nearby that kindly let me borrow their stove to boil some water for dinner.  They also had good news for me that there was a camp shop in T-meadows.  Guess we now would have to power it up there by tomorrow.  A slight change in plans, but it should not be as difficult of a day as today's 16 miles and 5,000 ft. of elevation gain.

Day 2 

Half-Dome to Tuolumne Meadows

"In every walk with nature one receives more than he seeks." ~John Muir

Today's morning was harder than expected - It was a steep ascent up to Sunrise Camp.  Lunch was at a nice spot overlooking the many peaks of Yosemite and the fin of Matthes Crest.  Past Sunrise Cathedral Peak came into view.  John Muir said when he climbed Cathedral Peak it was the first time he had been to church in California.  Once in T-Meadows we got the needed stove part.  It was a long 15 mile day and the burger finished the day off nicely.  Tomorrow would be almost a down day of only 9.5 miles and 1200 ft of elevation gain.

Day 3

T-Meadows to upper Lyell

After another high calorie meal at the food shack we hit the trail.  After the last 2 days of steady climbing we really enjoyed the gentle mellow trail up the valley.  We hiked for hrs on the soft, flat trail, much of it alongside the Lyell river.  It got hot and I jumped right on in - felt fantastic and I plan on many more midday cool downs.  After lunch we had one bout of switchbacks till reaching a footbridge in the midday heat.  For the rest of the trip we will plan on getting up early to get over any passes to take advantage of the cool mornings. Crossing the the bridge we found a beautiful spot about 1/4 mile upstream.  We got into camp by 2 and had plenty of time to relax, take a dip and do some laundry.  I feel as though we have left the last 2 days of craziness behind.

Day 4

Upper Lyell to Thousand Island Lake

All the world was before me and every day was a holiday, so it did not seem important to which one of the world's wildernesses I first should wander." ~ John Muir

Up to Donahue pass we got an early start.  We passed by a very nice high Sierra tarn about 400 ft above our camp, also would have been a wonderful site.  We also had some good views of Yosemite's highest mtn, Mt. Lyell and its glacier clinging below.  At the top of the pass we had expansive views south to some jagged peaks.  The pass was 11,000 ft.  Mammoth Mtn ski area was in the distance.  A man on the trail passed and said, "You both look much to clean to be backpacking." Not bad for 40 miles into the trip.

We left Yosemite and entered Ansel Adams Wilderness.  A bit down the trail I turned to Sam and said how surprised I was not to see many wildflowers on the trip so far.  Sure enough the next few miles on the way to Island Pass the trail was blanketed with flowers of all colors.  Lots of water falls like a Japanese tea garden, it was very peaceful through here.

We arrived at Thousand Island Lake by 2 pm - not that it matters any.  Quite a spot, the beauty unchanged since 4 years ago when we were last camped here, but much has changed in our lives.  Evening fell and I found a good rock to store our bear sacks up on.  When picking up our permit for the trip the ranger did warn us of a problem bear in this area and to try to avoid it.

Soon after dark, Sam hears a bear brush by our tent, I jump out looking for him.  He sticks his head up about 20 ft away near the food stash.  I yell and grabbed some rocks to throw.  He was not scared at all.  Finally after a rock or two he takes off.  Some nearby campers about 100 yards away yell over to me to find our what is going on. I yell back that there was a bear.  Sure enough 5 minutes later the bear strolls through their camp and takes a sack of food and medicine along with it.  It was not a good night of sleep knowing the bear could come back at any time.  Later that day I found out the bear also made the rounds at nearby Garnet Lake and got more food.

Day 5

Thousand Island Lake to Reds Meadow

"One can make a day of any size and regulate the rising and setting of his own sun and the brightness of its shining." ~ John Muir

  Mt Banner looked magnificent as always that next morning and we began a long day on the trail.  Over 16 miles of quite undulating terrain.  Up a couple of hundred feet then down to a lake - rinse and repeat.  We were quite beat the last few miles and were more than ready for Red's Campground amenities.

 Everyone that I met getting their permits in Yosemite seemed to be here at the Reds Meadow campground.  Steve and Dave, father son combo, Renee and Jean pre-med students from Oregon and a few more. The drive in campground is just west of Mammoth ski resort and best yet were its free thermal heated showers. Hot! Then a much needed fill up at the Mulehouse Cafe. Burger washed down with a 32 oz soda, milkshake and a beer.  Body needs all the cals it can get.  A little something is starting to move in and we get a few drops of rain.

Day 6

Reds Meadow to Purple Lake

"Until he extends the circle of his compassion to all living things, man will not himself find peace. ~ John Muir

 Back on the JMT, the first 2 miles were through a section that burned down in 1992.  The whole crew all left the cafe that morning at the same time and the miles were flying by.  Until... a drop... soon a steady downpour of rain. 

We continued on as the trail skirted a massive valley on our right for the whole day.  Nice wide open views.  The rain subsided for a bit, but then it all came back with a furry.  Lightning blasting from all sides, we hunkered down while getting pelted with marble sized hail.  Head down it was one of those moments you just want to be over ASAP.  Steve replied, "Now this is a trip we will remember."  We had 2 more miles to go- soaked head to toe at this point.

 We made it to camp and put up the tent as quickly as possible as it looked like another wave might come through.  Other than the weather we felt strong during our 13.8 mile day.

Day 7

Purple Lake to Cliff Camp

"Keep close to Nature's heart . . . and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean." ~ John Muir

Today was very interesting.  When we left camp clouds were already starting to form so I knew we could be in for more trouble.  We took some pictures around Lake Virginia which was very scenic with many peaks around.  From there it was many switchbacks down to Tully Hole and then to no surprise; time to head back up all the lost elevation to Squaw Lake.

 By the time we got to Squaw Lake at noon it was raining lightly and we heard a few distant booms.  Not wanting to try to make it over Silver Pass with possible lightning on the top we put up the tent and decided to have lunch and wait and see.  After about 3 hrs, the clouds were still jet black but no real threat action yet.  So we went for the pass.  Soon we were on top with fab views all the way back North to Mt Ritter and Banner.  Rain and lightning could be seen in the distance striking down, but thankfully many miles away.

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