Europe        

3 months        

(July 15 - October 15,  2003 )

 Countries visited:

England, Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Sweden,

Norway, Germany, Switzerland, Austria,

Czech Republic, Slovania, Croatia,

Italy, Spain, Ireland, Scottland

This trip was a life changing experience.  It was going to be the backpacking trip of our lives.  We went to so many beautiful, historic places and met so many people from all around the world.  We lived a life truly on the road.  We had no reservations or set itinerary- only a 3 month unlimited rail pass.  We could go where we wanted, when we wanted, and the goal was to experience as much as Europe as possible in 3 months.  To do this we set out not only to see many of the classic sights and cities, but also Europe through the backdoor.  This included a travel plan that would require days in trains, buses, hitchhiking to remote villages and trekking through the backcountry. As I look back at this trip Its hard to look at it as a whole, each place or country had it's own personality.  It is a travelers dream come true being able to hop on and off trains for a few hours and be in another County with distinct differences, cultural and geographical.  I had a basic plan of where we were going to go, a list of each place and how long we would stay and this changed a little bit as we went.  We were also on a strict budget and camping made up for the nights when we were forced to stay at expensive hostels.  Ultimate highs and lows, so many things I will never forget.  Every day a new place, a new experience.                                                 

 July 14-  Today is the big day.  It has been filled with packing and stressing- so many little things to get straight.  We quit our jobs, excited, and so ready to begin this journey.  Finally on the way after months of planning and hard work.  We read lots of guidebooks and had a really good idea of what we wanted to see and the basic route. As we say good byes to my dad at the airport, the anxiety builds.  "What's going to happen these next 3 months?" No real plans only fate to guide the way.  We were on our own.

July 17-  The flight was a long one and the screaming toddler did not help.  We arrived in London and were pretty much ready for bed.  It was a tough start - crowded/hot subway, it was pissing rain, we were jetlagged, and I came back to the hostel to some Japanese man passed out in my bed.  The trip can only get better from here I prey.  The next morning we walked to Buckingham palace and other sights of  London.  I could not find my old student ID before leaving home, but in-turn I discovered the "Unemployed Discount" at St Peters church.

We had a night on the town.  Afternoons in the pubs, a play at night, good times here in London.  We saw The Lion King and Stomp, both were awesome.  If you have the chance go see them.  The only problem here is how expensive the pound is for Americans.  I am eager to get to the mainland of Europe and switch to the Euro.

Sam really wanted to go back to Brighton on the west coast of England were she spent a semester abroad 2 years ago.  We had a good time there, it reminded me of Santa Cruz.  Our hostel was in one of those buildings behind Sam with a view of the ocean.  We ended up that night at a house party.  "Your from California , say something, say anything to me !," one of the locals said to me.  Someone also said we should start a game show.  "One Aussie, an American couple, a Danish Professor and a bunch of Brits." Brighton is a party town for sure.

July 20th-  The day before we arrived in Brussels and were not very thrilled with the city.  We were glad to get out the next day, but we got on the wrong train.  We arrived in Brugge just after 4:30.  The difference between Brugge and Brussels is night and day, we like it here.  It is the perfect size city. We stayed at a campground a ways out of town and took the bus in.

  Home sweet home.  We camped a lot due to the high prices in Europe, even the hostels can add up.  This is a typical European campground.  Just a plot of land and you set up wherever you please.  It has nothing to do with being a nature experience like the US.  But these campgrounds make up for it by having a bar, restaurant and live music at night. Yes!  This campground was a bus ride away for the main square of brugge.

Here is the main square in Brugge.  We hung out and listened to some Euro-band play cheesy American Rock tunes like, "Celebration, We are Family."  This place was a scenic, clean city with lots of canals and people hanging out having a good time.

 July 22- Amsterdam, we love it.  After arriving mid-day we followed a lady from the train station to the Maloofa hotel.  It was a block away from the station and the nearby Red Light District.  This city is a very interesting place,  Sam called it heaven and hell.  We took a 75 min. boat tour through the canals of the city and really enjoyed it.  The sun was out, and the trees and buildings lining the canals were beautiful. 

We decided to stay in Amsterdam a second night.  The next day we went to the Anne Frank House which was unforgettable standing in the rooms where they hid for so long.  We also went Heineken Brewery.  The rest of the day was spent relaxing in the parks and enjoying the sun.  Hope the weather stays this good as we head north.

July 24th-  Yesterday was long, but fun.  We got an early start and took off towards the Hoge National Park, Holland.  The park was great because we were given free bikes to get around, we rode on paths in a huge loop. The air felt refreshing and it was nice to be outside cruising these seemingly endless paths.

More shots as we biked around the park.  The picture is an old hunting lodge.

It was time to head north.  We spent countless hours on trains during the 3 months.  This picture shows Dan enjoying the country as we head into Denmark.  I spent a lot of time looking out the window at the foreign countryside just enjoying the thought of being in such foreign lands.  The trains in Scandinavia were some of the most comfortable.

July 25th- In Denmark we got off the train at a random stop basically in the middle of cornfields. and hiked over a mile along the road and fields to get to the Kvaerndrop castle.  We were tired and frustrated, but things worked out when the lady at the info booth told us we could camp for free at the plot of land behind the building- It even had a shower.  We then explored the castle and the surrounding grounds.  It is actually supported by wooden beams in the water.  That night we splurged at the all you can eat buffet- fried chicken, salad and fries near the castle.  Then it started to pour.  And I mean buckets!  The tent held up well through the night.

July 26th-  Ships Ahoy Mattie.  We left the colorful city of Svendborg, Denmark and are on our way to the island of Aero.  On the ferry we met another couple from Tennessee that were just about done with their 2 month trip across Europe..  I was in awe of them, but I knew we would be the experienced ones as our own weeks passed. Once on Aero we walked through the quiet and quaint town filled with bright colorful buildings to our campground.  We had a good site near the ocean.

Bike was the perfect way to travel on this island.  The island was protected by law to keep it's old world charm.  We biked off into the county through farms, pastures and villages.  Their were vegetable stands were on the side of the road where you buy and sell vegetables on the honor system.  We had a little more rain that night at camp but no big deal.

A classic picture during our lunch routine.  A baggate with cheese and wine- The record was 6 meals straight.  Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner for 2 days. Their was something refreshing about simplifying.  Beggers meal of bread, meat, cheese, with a bottle of wine does not get old.  Picnics were a time to find a quait spot, hang out, relax, and enjoy just being where we were at the moment.

July 28th- After another full day of travel we made it to Copenhagen.  We checked into a hostel their, the room had 14 beds.  We did not spend much time in Copenhagen and did not feel the need to see anything there. Big city atmosphere.   The next morning we got on a train and arrived in Oslo, Norway a long eight hours later and were welcomed with steady rain.  The cheapest hotel in town was $120 due to some type of soccer event so we headed to a campground, we were soaked, it was one a tough day.  Being in Oslo felt like being in a city in the U.S,  felt like a small Seattle or something. The next morning we were up and got a train to Myrdal to begin the "Norway in a Nutshell" experience.  The countryside and towns are striking as the train winds through the bright green Norweigen countryside.  The train was going over these passes in the highcountry.  Rolling mountians, rivers, and stunning wilderness along the train tracks. This is what Dan has been waiting for, and it was all I had ever imagined.

July ?-  Feels great not to know what the date is.  I feel like we have done so much since I last wrote, but it was only a day ago.  We are now in the heart of Norway, we took the Falmsbane (train) to Flam.  The rail line is privately owned they call it an engineering marvel because it drops so many feet in such a short time. At one point the train stopped at a massive waterfall and everyone got out to get a better look.  All of a sudden, music starts playing and a woman dancer comes out from behind a rock near the falls.  In Europe, the beauty of nature is never enough - these falls needed woman and music to accompany it.  I still laugh when thinking about it.  We arrived in gorgeous Flam at the valley floor at the base of the fjord and stayed the night.  The next morning we took the ferry out of town through  the most spectacular section of the Sogenefjorden, the biggest fjord in Norway.  Highlight of the trip so far.  Waterfalls everywhere off cliffs and mountains thousands of feet high.  We passed tiny villages only accessible by boat and the weather was perfect.  What a boat ride it was.  After getting off the ferry at our stop we took a bus to Voss.  The bus twisted and turned up the frightenly steep mountain.  Sam couldn't even look out the window.   Now it was time to board a train to continue to the coastal city of Bergen, Norway.

 Bergen is a charming seaside city with lots of character.  I am glad we made the trip out here.  We are staying in a guest home that was the same price as the dorms.  The house was in a charming little neighborhood outside of Bergen.  It did feel strange approaching this strangers door and knocking. " Hello we will be staying at your place tonight."  But the owner was very welcoming in inviting us into her home. Its on a fjord and the bed is fabulous.  We were thankful to have a roof over our head and a cozy bed, that's for sure.  I am preying that our laundry will dry by the morning, we need clean clothes before heading off into Jotenheimun backcountry.

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