Overview:  The Wind Rivers are a high glaciated range of mountains that run a 100 miles along the continental divide through Wyoming.  The range contains 7 of the 10 largest glaciers outside of Alaska, 47 summits that top 13,000 feet, and the highest mountain in Wyoming, Gannet Peak, reaching 13,804 ft. With no easy access this range is seen only by determined backpackers. The western slope is comprised of the Bridger Wilderness and the eastern the Fitzpatrick and Popo Agie Wilderness areas. My trip consisted of a traverse of the range north to south from the Green Lakes to Big Sandy. To stay in these alpine regions required at least half of the miles on very remote alpine terrain, most of which were cross-country. Part of the way I would be on the Continental Divide Trail and the other sections I would break off to stay near the actual divide where possible to experience more alpine areas. This trek was also my 1st trek of considerable length were I would be solo.  Adding more uncertainty to the mix was that my plan was to travel through some of the most rugged and remote regions of the Rockies.  No shortage of adventure here... my comfort zone was pushed throughout in more ways than one, and I succeed in was pushing myself as deep as I could into this unforgettable wilderness of deep valleys, flowered meadows, trout filled lakes, and granite towers.

Movie - Coming Soon

Day 1

Green Lakes to Trail Creek Park

It was a first for me to make the long drive across Oregon and Idaho on my way to the staging city of the Wind River Range, Pinedale, Wyoming. I drove into the night after getting a late 1pm start and ended up eventually pulling into a campground  for a few hours of shuteye.  I was about a half hour from Pinedale had to be there at 8 am the next morning to arrange my car shuttle between trailheads. The following morning I met the friendly people at the Great Outdoor Shop and we made the drive along a dirt road, most of it along the Green River eventually making it to Green Lakes. They would drive my car a few days later to the Big Sandy Trailhead where I would exit. I took my first step out of the car, took in a breath of fresh air, then slung my pack over my shoulder. Rick, my driver, gave me one last piece of advice as I make my first few steps, "Do yourself a favor and don't come out early" he replies. I continue on my way thinking, I plan on taking him up on that. Then another thought passes through my mind, "Do I really have a choice?"

Green River

It was a 9:30 AM start as I followed the trail along the eastern side of the Green River Lakes. Making my way toward Square Top Mountain in the distance. It was an enjoyable day of hiking along the lake, flowered meadows, and the meandering Green River. I passed by a few large groups camped on the lake.

Green River Lakes

Green River

Indian Paintbrush

 After making it a few miles up the valley, I sat down for lunch alongside the turquoise waters. It was hard to imagine that this was basically the most northern start of the Colorado River. The blue turquoise water in this glaciated alpine valley, a polar opposite of the muddy brown water surrounded by the orange hues of the Grand Canyon. My ankle already bothering me from other walks of the summer, oh well, like it or not it's along for the ride.  Continuing along the forested valley past Square Top Mountain the trail steepens past Three Forks Park. Tired, I take another rest and I think I am not going to make it to Peak Lake, but it does not matter. For the trip I did not have any set camp sites, I just knew I was going to try and average about 10 miles a day which would be a lot with the obstacles of cross-country.  Shortly, I had my first interesting river crossing where I carefully piggybacked by way across a log. I look up from time to time at the vertical faces of granite and eventually call it quits where the trail splits at Trail Creek Park. Clouds steady rolled in, heard the first boom of thunder in the distance, rain showers commenced and I settled in my tent in a forested site along the creek.

Green River

Day 2

Trail Creek Park to Titcom Basin

The next morning I started my way up through the forest to Vista Pass, nearby the top I ran into a large Sierra Club group of about 12 people. They were making their way up to Peak Lake when they decided it was too dangerous due to large amounts of snow. That also being my intended route I still decided to head up to see for myself. I could see their tracks where they turned around. Their was a section of large boulders filled in with snow and many areas melting around them. I carefully continued and it soon later I was out of the snow without any trouble. Once at Peak Lake I took a break glancing up at Stroud Peak towering above all. It was now time to leave the trail and head cross-country around the lake, and continue up an alpine valley to Knapsack Col. The short 1/4 mile traverse around the south end of the lake took nearly an hour due to house sized boulders and more snow in between these rocks. This unnerved me a bit and I took my time slowly around the boulders looking for the safest route," I hope this section is not the norm to come or I will have to consider another route," I thought.  Not a good feeling that the 1st 100 yards leaving the trail on this trip was that difficult.

Once around the boulders seen above my head in the picture it was smooth sailing. Easy walking through the meadows and smooth slabs of granite. Now I was following a stream that emptied in peak lake up the valley. Their were fields of flowers, looking up a circ of 13,000 ft peaks, and views to my right of the Stroud Glacier.  Clouds are starting to move in, but I am not concerned at this point.

Above Peak Lake

Stroud Peak and Tarn

Tarn in Knapsack Col Valley

Tarn in Knapsack Col Valley

At this point I was above 11,000 feet in an open alpine valley. Looking up at Knapsack Col it was only 800 ft above me. The wind now picking up, the clouds now rolling in thick and quickly. With no recent sounds of lightning, I looked up at the Col made a decision and thought "I going to get over that thing as fast as I can." I was pushing myself hard as I took in huge breaths of air in the thin atmosphere. From here on much of the hiking up to the pass was on snow.

Looking back towards Peak Lake

I knew it would eventually happen that evening, I was hoping for just another hour later..., the first crackle of lightning breaks out in the distance. I was kicking steps up a steep snow slope.  The slope was steep but I felt safe on it as I could dig my boot into it with each kick; I was much more concerned with the lightning.  Now 100 ft from the top.. a flash... BOOM... a nearby bolt rattles the earth.  Hail now kicks into full gear battering down my hood. I found some cover in a small cove, barely enough room for me, under  a rock the size of a bus. Hail was still hitting me and I still felt very exposed to the elements at this time. After a brief 5 minutes or so of no lightning I got out and continued up towards the nearby pass - CRACK... another one, I quickly retreated back down into my cove. A long ten minutes pass, still exposed, cold, thinking I cannot stay here for long. With no recent bolts, I make another go at it. This time I made it to the top of Knapsack Col, the highest point of the trip at 12,200 ft, I am fully running at this time across the top. Looking over the other side, the large Twin Glacier, to steep to descend, I traversed the side of it along some rocks, out of the open a bit where it was less steep. Then back on the glacier, I ran to the next set of rocks 100 yards away in the middle of the glacier. Feeling so exposed at this point with nothing around me. I ran more of the way down the glacier for about a half mile. My steps sliding out like I was skiing. About 20 minutes later when I am finally out of the upper reaches of the valley, the clouds begin to separate, and the sun pops out. Unbelievable how fast the storm moved through. I take a look around the valley, straight ahead is a towering vertical mass of granite of Mt Helen. The size of these granite walls can be compared to Yosemite's El Capitan.

Lesson be learned about Wind River weather patterns. I was stuck in the lightning storm at the top of Knapsack Col at just 1:30 PM . So first I learned that they can hit in the middle of the day and also that they are extremely fast moving. The whole ordeal did not last much more than an hour. Next time it is better to stay where you are or head down, pitch a tent and wait it out.

Storm moves in on Knapsack Col, taken from my bivy

Walking down toward Titcom Lakes, it was one of the most dramatic valleys I have ever walked through surrounded by huge ramps of granite. Before reaching the lakes it began to rain again, but no lightning this round. As I made my way around the lakes I started looking for a campsite. There were other parties in the area, I was not surprised as this basin, due to its scenic location, is one of the most popular destinations of the Northern Wind Rivers.

 Titcom Basin

 Titcom Basin

Later that evening after setting up camp, I sat overlooking the lake, and observed a bird dive bomb directly into the lake in front of me. It came back up out of the water a moment later, took a turn and flew directly over me with a foot long fish in his claws.

 Weather clearing

Titcom Lake Camp

Mt Fremont over camp

Looking South from camp

Clearing Storm

 with this mornings "fruit smoothie" flavor. A

Day 3

Titcom Basin to Cook Lakes

 I was packed up and hiking by 7:30 AM to cloudy skis and a cold nip in the air. For breakfast on this trip I have made a change from oatmeal to bars, mostly I would just eat them as I walked the first mile or two of the day. I am not a big fan of the energy bar as to me most taste like a lump of radioactive waste from Homer's Plant, but was pleasantly surprised with this mornings "fruit smoothie" flavor. As I made my way along the trail from Titcom Lakes I soon was at the shores of Island Lake.

After yesterday's events I was seriously considering changing the route and sticking to continental divide trail. I also have a new sense of urgency that would also last the rest of the days, get my hiking done as early as possible to avoid any afternoon storms. Stopping for a moment to look at the map I saw that I would need to leave the route and follow a stream up from the south end of the lake. When reaching this stop there was an obvious use trail heading up along the stream. Glancing at it, I could not pass by this welcoming path to the high country. At this point thinking, "If this next portion goes anything like yesterday, I'm done and sticking to the trail."

Island Lake

Hiking up the valley this is what I envisioned what most of the trail-less portions would entail.  A wide granite valley with pockets of meadows at the bottom made for enjoyable hiking and easy navigation, and thankfully little snow. I continued up the valley now with a positive attitude. Making great time I hit the highpoint between Island and Wall Lake by 9:30 AM. Looking up, I felt no threat of another storm anytime soon. From the pass I encountered a steep gully of snow that led down, to dangerous to descend I traversed another 50 yards to the left, found another mellower snow slope and followed it down to another patch of green below. Continuing down to towards Wall Lake I followed along stream through some thick brush in places, but nothing too annoying. Nearby the lake I encountered a large group of about 8 heading up the valley, we talked for a bit. I asked them about the best way around Wall Lake and where to catch the trail again at Cook Lakes. They also recommended a spot at Cook Lakes that had its very own beach. I crossed a river and made my way around the East side of Wall Lake, then before the end of the lake headed left over a knoll that gently led right down to Cook Lake.

I camped at the south end of Cook Lake up 50 yards above the wake in the forest with a charming beach below.  It was only noon and it was nice for the first time on the trip to shut it down.  I spent the evening reading, relaxing, and took a dip in the frigid waters. Swarms of mosquitoes were in the area and I made sure the head net was on, and all exposed skin covered as much as possible. That evening I boiled some water for my nightly freeze-dried dinner, and even kept my head net on in between bites.

Stream above Wall Lake

Cook Lakes Dinner

Day 4

Cook Lakes to Pipestone Lakes

The soft rays of the sun, cool temps, and crisp Rocky Mountain air. It felt good as always to be up and out early. Getting the blood pumping knowing a whole day of new sights awaits. Thinking back to yesterday's success with weather, navigation, and overall enjoyable stress free day, moral was at its highest point yet. The element of the whole day being spent heading south on the Continental Divide Trail also made it a thoughtless day of one foot in front of the other. Soon the trail headed up out of the forest traversing a slope with unforgettable views of the mountain crest. Making frequent stops to snap some photos and even took the time to set the camera down and do "survivor-man style" video of me walking along the trail.

Early Morning hiking along lower Cook Lake

On the CDT looking back North

I reached a point about 2 hours into the day that I could look down west all the way to the flatlands of Pinedale. Digging my phone out of my pack, I knew that if there was one spot that I could get cell reception that this might be it. First leaving Sam a message, disappointed at first, being out in the middle of one of the most remote ranges in the country, getting reception and not being able to talk to her.  I left a message that I was doing just fine while gushing about the walk that morning. I knew Mike might pick-up and was able to talk with him, he was leaving later that day with Dad for their own trip up in Yosemite's Tuolumne Meadows. While talking with him the phone beeps with Sam on the line so thankfully we were able to talk.

Trail Junction to Timico Lake to the east, but no trail

For the remainder of the day the trail made its way up and down, through lower elevations running along many lovely tree line lakes that are no doubt full of trout.  I also cruised up and over hat pass which was more of a mellow knoll than a mountain pass, but I did quicken my stride as clouds were building and I was once again in the open above tree line. Continuing on back down into the forest I did have one difficult river crossing of the river that connected Victor Lake with North Fork Lake. It was very wide and I did not want to take my boots off  and wade across it so I hiked quite a ways upstream, through heavy brush in places, to look for a easy way to cross. Sure enough no luck, frustrated I headed back down, took the boots off and painfully made my way across. The one thing I forgot on this trip was a my pair of lightweight sandals. As the clouds got darker and I was tiring from the day it was another short but stiff climb up to Pipestone Lakes. Arriving at the lake I put my pack down and explored around the lake for a good site. I found one that fit the bill nicely on a rise overlooking the lake that is located 100 yards directly to the north after the trail crosses the lake. Literally the moment I finish constructing the tent, the hail storm began as I dove inside. As I write later that evening, a fire is built overlooking the lake with just a few clouds in the sky glowing from the last rays of the sun.

Many river crossings, some not so fun

Unplanned arrival at Halls Lake

Looking at Middle Fork Lake from Halls Lake detour

Day 5

Pipestone Lakes to Middle Fork Lake

Today I got lost for about 4 hours, it was a rough day mentally. Here's how it happened. Leaving Pipestone lakes the trail was great besides another difficult river crossing. Then about an hour into the hike the trail starts to become more difficult to follow and eventually disappears in a marshy area. At this point I thought maybe I had missed the junction to Middle Fork Lake and that the lake was somewhere up above me to the east. Problem was the terrain at this point was filled with trees, small ridges, rivers, lakes, making it basically making route finding impossible. So at this point I went with my best judgment (that 4 hours later found out I was wrong) and headed up towards more high country where hopefully I would gain my bearings by being able to name a lake or peak on my map in relation to where I was. An hour later looking at some a large peaks a few miles away I still had no idea what ones they were. Becoming desperate I pulled the compass  out and gave me another big clue of how my since of direction was wrong. I was traveling much to far in a northward direction and had to go eastward. I eventually followed a river that led up to a large high alpine lake surrounded by white granite walls of the continental divide. A nod my head with a sigh of relief hit while looking at the map and the topography around me when I was 90% sure I was at Halls Lake. Fantastic... I know where I am.  Looking at the map I just now needed to head south around a ridge. The great part about being up high in the alpine country at this point was as soon as I made my way around the ridge I got a glance at my days destination, Middle Fork Lake and its basin. Another mile or so of a gradual decent down and I was there. At the beginning of the day I thought that this was going to be the easiest day of travel of the whole trip. No big passes, all trail, and no worries, boy was I wrong.  The sun made its way down as the moon rose over the valley, I took in the views from another splendid spot. Mosquitoes are again horrendous and spend most of my free time in the tent.  I had been thinking about this day a lot, I considered it the crux of the route. Why? The whole day was off-trail, looking at the top map, the 2 passes looked steep, careful route finding would be required, and I would surly I would not see a sole out here..  Looking out into the valley across the lake I can see almost half of tomorrows route, I am excited as it looks like a good line through marvelous country.

Mt Mt St. Michael

Day 6

 Middle Fork Lake to Midsummer Dome

Wow- what a day of splendid cross-country hiking. Making my way through valleys encompassed by vertical spires of granite reaching thousands of feet in the sky. Again the amount of vertical granite reminds me again of Yosemite's El Capitan. 

I was always surprised how cold it was in the mornings. A layer of frost builds up on the tent fly at night that I end up trying to shake off each morning. What I love about the below freezing temps is that their are zero mosquitoes, they must not be able to handle the cold. As I left camp with sunrise I followed Middle Fork Lake around and begun my way up Middle Fork Valley. On my right was Dragonshead and Proghorn peaks. I followed a slight rolling ridge below Proghorn peak up to a pass above, I was a little worried about route finding in this very high altitude section, but had no difficulties.  Another 2 hours later, after making my way up to a pass of scree, I was standing on a pass looking down at Bonneville Lake. Getting down to the lake was steep, but did not have any difficulty finding a safe line or never felt overly exposed.

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Lee Lake

Lee Lake Tarns

Up high near Donna Lake, Middle Fork Lake seen in background

Laying down the pack I took a break at Bonneville lake. I raise my head up and take a glance at the next obstacle, a steep rocky pass between Mt Bonneville and Raid Peak. This was the one spot the whole trip that looking at it there was no "easy" way up. To the left looked dangerously steep while the right side looked slippery with slabs of wet, mossy, slabs of rock. So I did the best I could and headed up, sections required the use of hands to pull myself up. Again I never felt overly exposed and there was maybe just a moment or two of, "don't fall here" thoughts going through my head. As the steepness started to mellow out,  I made my way over a field of boulders to the top and a panoramic view of East Fork Valley. Vertical ramps of stark granite walls concluding in peaceful flower filled meadows.

East Fork Valley

East Fork Valley

The way down to the lakes was  another 5 Star campsite was made home for the night near a large stub of granite named "Midsummer Dome." I can't believe how warm it was today, relaxing in the tent by 2 PM, it felt like a sauna, then a refreshing mountain breeze would hit. As I write it is late evening, as I look out of the tent the last rays of light hitting Pyramid Peak, the sky is as blue as I have ever seen it.

Day 7

East Fork Valley  to Circ of the Towers

It was a warm morning and I took my time packing up camp.  At 8:30 I left camp and the first order of the day was to find Pyramid Lake and pick up a trail there. It was slow going as I was tired out of the gate. As I hiked I ate my morning breakfast, a super protein power bar as I took each step towards Pyramid Lake which was somewhere ahead. I dropped into a wooded ravine and again making my way back up above where I hoped to find the lake. Soon  I found the lake and a thick tread to walk on.  From Pyramid Lake it was a pleasant stroll passing several lakes on the way  to Shadow Lake junction. Surly their must be thousands of lakes in the Winds.  Nearby Shadow Junction there was a stream crossing where I ran into a large group carefully making their way across.  Now that I was nearing the popular Circ of the Towers and the Big Sandy trailhead I would see many groups each day. I asked, "Where is the junction to Shadow Lake? It looks like it must be near." One let me know, "Yes its right up the hill 50 yards." Taking the junction the trail ran beside a stream with a backdrop of more dramatic peaks in the distance. Shadow Lake was busy, but for good reason - rimmed by spikes of granite above another picture perfect alpine lake.  Hiking along the lake I somehow ended up in the middle of a large groups campsite, filled not only with people, but many goats also.  I chatted with them a bit about my trip and theirs, including the benefits and luxuries of having goats tote all your needs to the backcountry.  They asked," Do you need anything?" "No thanks,  I will be out tomorrow..... (thinking to myself, No! Are you crazy I could make a list of a hundred things I am craving after 7 days out here)  So after coming to my senses a moment later, " Unless....you happen to have any fruit?" She then replies, " Come fill up a bag, we got all kinds."  As I continued hiking I popped a handful of dried mangos and blueberries in my mouth... Flavor explosion.. Excellent. Following the valley I walked by Billy and Barons lake and around the corner was Texas Pass. As I battled my way up the rocky slope, trying to go quickly of Texas Pass I found myself gasping for air after a few steps.  I was surprised to see a dog following another backpacker down from the pass. The dog was frightened by the steep rocky slope, but its owner called to him and he continued his way. "The Circ of the Towers" Another gem of the Winds was now before me. Its a 270 degree circ of granite spires. It's no wonder why so many climbers come here. From the top of Texas Pass I slid down a large snowfield. Exploring the area I headed over to Skunks Knob know for a better view. After a brief scramble to the top I could see it all including Lonesome Lake a vertical 1000 ft below to Pignora Peak across the valley.  As I took it all in it was clear now a storm was headed this way. Being up here high and exposed I began by decent, now with a since of urgency.  I made it all the way down to Lonesome Lake when it the hail and lightning began.  This time I was ready and quickly put up my tent beside the trail and hunkered down to wait out the storm. From inside the tent I could see the flashes of light followed by booms of the earth shaking rumble. 45 minutes later, packed the tent back up and continued on.  I explored farther up a the circ following the outlet stream from lonesome lake up above.  I eventually made it to hidden lake, but it was much to rocky for any good camping so I went a bit north just below and found a good spot. As I look out the mesh of the tent in one sweep above I see the towers of, Warbonet Peak, Warrior 1 and 2, Pylon Peak, Black Tower, Sharks Nose, Wolfshead and Pignora Peak.

Pyramid Lake

Mae's Lake

Mae's Lake

Trail towards Shadow Lake

Shadow Lake

Billy's Lake

Heading up Texas Pass

Near Skunk Knob in the Circ of Towers

Approaching Storm

Day 8

Circ of the Towers to Big Sandy

Today would be the last day of the trip and I took quite a few pictures on the way out towards Jack-Ass Pass. Heading back towards the trail there was a waterfall where I stopped for a moment to set up the camera for a shot with me in the scene. Up onto of Jack-Ass pass I talked with 2 climbers heading into the Circ. Talking with them I told them how I hiked all the way across the range and they told me their plans to scale the walls. I thought to myself, we both are out to do the same thing, spend time here. The only difference is I spent many days crossing the peaks while they would spend their days climbing up them.

Hidden Lake stream

Hidden Lake stream

Heading out on the last day

One last look back at the Circ of Towers

As I made my way to the Big Sandy parking lot the trail mellowed out as I passed Big Sandy Lake. Then it was a march along the well-beaten path to the lot. Arriving at the lot I had to search for the car as my shuttle driver dropped it off here sometime a few days ago. I found it and began the long drive on the bumpy dirt road towards Pinedale. In Pinedale I had lunch at the brewery and I would drive half-way and stay at a KOA campground on the way home. The next day making it back, followed by some days of rest. I can clearly see now why some consider the Winds the best backpacking in the West.  It is a backpacker's park and requires the commitment and determination to reach the Continental Divide within it.

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