Crest of the Wind Rivers

Wind River Range, Wyoming

80 Miles

Aug 1st - 8th 2009

Overview: 

The Wind Rivers are a high glaciated range of mountains that run a 100 miles along the continental divide through Wyoming.  The range contains 7 of the 10 largest glaciers outside of Alaska, 47 summits that top 13,000 feet, and the highest mountain in Wyoming, Gannet Peak, reaching 13,804 ft. With no easy access this range is seen only by determined backpackers. The western slope is comprised of the Bridger Wilderness and the eastern the Fitzpatrick and Popo Agie Wilderness areas. My trip consisted of a traverse of the range north to south from the Green Lakes to Big Sandy. To stay in these alpine regions required at least half of the miles on very remote alpine terrain, most of which were cross-country. Part of the way I would be on the Continental Divide Trail and the other sections I would break off to stay near the actual divide where possible to experience more alpine areas. This trek was also my 1st trek of considerable length were I would be solo.  Adding more uncertainty to the mix was that my plan was to travel through some of the most rugged and remote regions of the Rockies.  No shortage of adventure here... my comfort zone was pushed throughout in more ways than one, and I succeed in was pushing myself as deep as I could into this unforgettable wilderness of deep valleys, flowered meadows, trout filled lakes, and granite towers.

Day 1

Green Lakes to Trail Creek Park

It was a first for me to make the long drive across Oregon and Idaho on my way to the staging city of the Wind River Range, Pinedale, Wyoming. I drove into the night after getting a late 1pm start and ended up eventually pulling into a campground  for a few hours of shuteye.  I was about a half hour from Pinedale had to be there at 8 am the next morning to arrange my car shuttle between trailheads. The following morning I met the friendly people at the Great Outdoor Shop and we made the drive along a dirt road, most of it along the Green River eventually making it to Green Lakes. They would drive my car a few days later to the Big Sandy Trailhead where I would exit. I took my first step out of the car, took in a breath of fresh air, then slung my pack over my shoulder. Rick, my driver, gave me one last piece of advice as I make my first few steps, "Do yourself a favor and don't come out early" he replies. I continue on my way thinking, I plan on taking him up on that. Then another thought passes through my mind, "Do I really have a choice?"

It was a 9:30 AM start as I followed the trail along the eastern side of the Green River Lakes. Making my way toward Square Top Mountain in the distance. It was an enjoyable day of hiking along the lake, flowered meadows, and the meandering Green River. I passed by a few large groups camped on the lake.

 After making it a few miles up the valley, I sat down for lunch alongside the turquoise waters. It was hard to imagine that this was basically the most northern start of the Colorado River. The blue turquoise water in this glaciated alpine valley, a polar opposite of the muddy brown water surrounded by the orange hues of the Grand Canyon. My ankle already bothering me from other walks of the summer, oh well, like it or not it's along for the ride.  Continuing along the forested valley past Square Top Mountain the trail steepens past Three Forks Park. Tired, I take another rest and I think I am not going to make it to Peak Lake, but it does not matter. For the trip I did not have any set camp sites, I just knew I was going to try and average about 10 miles a day which would be a lot with the obstacles of cross-country.  Shortly, I had my first interesting river crossing where I carefully piggybacked by way across a log. I look up from time to time at the vertical faces of granite and eventually call it quits where the trail splits at Trail Creek Park. Clouds steady rolled in, heard the first boom of thunder in the distance, rain showers commenced and I settled in my tent in a forested site along the creek.

Day 2

Trail Creek Park to Titcom Basin

The next morning I started my way up through the forest to Vista Pass, nearby the top I ran into a large Sierra Club group of about 12 people. They were making their way up to Peak Lake when they decided it was too dangerous due to large amounts of snow. That also being my intended route I still decided to head up to see for myself. I could see their tracks where they turned around. Their was a section of large boulders filled in with snow and many areas melting around them. I carefully continued and it soon later I was out of the snow without any trouble. Once at Peak Lake I took a break glancing up at Stroud Peak towering above all. It was now time to leave the trail and head cross-country around the lake, and continue up an alpine valley to Knapsack Col. The short 1/4 mile traverse around the south end of the lake took nearly an hour due to house sized boulders and more snow in between these rocks. This unnerved me a bit and I took my time slowly around the boulders looking for the safest route," I hope this section is not the norm to come or I will have to consider another route," I thought.  Not a good feeling that the 1st 100 yards leaving the trail on this trip was that difficult.

Once around the boulders seen above my head in the picture it was smooth sailing. Easy walking through the meadows and smooth slabs of granite. Now I was following a stream that emptied in peak lake up the valley. Their were fields of flowers, looking up a circ of 13,000 ft peaks, and views to my right of the Stroud Glacier.  Clouds are starting to move in, but I am not concerned at this point.

At this point I was above 11,000 feet in an open alpine valley. Looking up at Knapsack Col it was only 800 ft above me. The wind now picking up, the clouds now rolling in thick and quickly. With no recent sounds of lightning, I looked up at the Col made a decision and thought "I going to get over that thing as fast as I can." I was pushing myself hard as I took in huge breaths of air in the thin atmosphere. From here on much of the hiking up to the pass was on snow.

I knew it would eventually happen that evening, I was hoping for just another hour later..., the first crackle of lightning breaks out in the distance. I was kicking steps up a steep snow slope.  The slope was steep but I felt safe on it as I could dig my boot into it with each kick; I was much more concerned with the lightning.  Now 100 ft from the top.. a flash... BOOM... a nearby bolt rattles the earth.  Hail now kicks into full gear battering down my hood. I found some cover in a small cove, barely enough room for me, under  a rock the size of a bus. Hail was still hitting me and I still felt very exposed to the elements at this time. After a brief 5 minutes or so of no lightning I got out and continued up towards the nearby pass - CRACK... another one, I quickly retreated back down into my cove. A long ten minutes pass, still exposed, cold, thinking I cannot stay here for long. With no recent bolts, I make another go at it. This time I made it to the top of Knapsack Col, the highest point of the trip at 12,200 ft, I am fully running at this time across the top. Looking over the other side, the large Twin Glacier, to steep to descend, I traversed the side of it along some rocks, out of the open a bit where it was less steep. Then back on the glacier, I ran to the next set of rocks 100 yards away in the middle of the glacier. Feeling so exposed at this point with nothing around me. I ran more of the way down the glacier for about a half mile. My steps sliding out like I was skiing. About 20 minutes later when I am finally out of the upper reaches of the valley, the clouds begin to separate, and the sun pops out. Unbelievable how fast the storm moved through. I take a look around the valley, straight ahead is a towering vertical mass of granite of Mt Helen. The size of these granite walls can be compared to Yosemite's El Capitan.

Lesson be learned about Wind River weather patterns. I was stuck in the lightning storm at the top of Knapsack Col at just 1:30 PM . So first I learned that they can hit in the middle of the day and also that they are extremely fast moving. The whole ordeal did not last much more than an hour. Next time it is better to stay where you are or head down, pitch a tent and wait it out.

Walking down toward Titcom Lakes, it was one of the most dramatic valleys I have ever walked through surrounded by huge ramps of granite. Before reaching the lakes it began to rain again, but no lightning this round. As I made my way around the lakes I started looking for a campsite. There were other parties in the area, I was not surprised as this basin, due to its scenic location, is one of the most popular destinations of the Northern Wind Rivers.

Later that evening after setting up camp, I sat overlooking the lake, and observed a bird dive bomb directly into the lake in front of me. It came back up out of the water a moment later, took a turn and flew directly over me with a foot long fish in his claws.

Day 3

Titcom Basin to Cook Lakes

 I was packed up and hiking by 7:30 AM to cloudy skis and a cold nip in the air. For breakfast on this trip I have made a change from oatmeal to bars, mostly I would just eat them as I walked the first mile or two of the day. I am not a big fan of the energy bar as to me most taste like a lump of radioactive waste from Homer's Plant, but was pleasantly surprised with this mornings "fruit smoothie" flavor. As I made my way along the trail from Titcom Lakes I soon was at the shores of Island Lake.

After yesterday's events I was seriously considering changing the route and sticking to continental divide trail. I also have a new sense of urgency that would also last the rest of the days, get my hiking done as early as possible to avoid any afternoon storms. Stopping for a moment to look at the map I saw that I would need to leave the route and follow a stream up from the south end of the lake. When reaching this stop there was an obvious use trail heading up along the stream. Glancing at it, I could not pass by this welcoming path to the high country. At this point thinking, "If this next portion goes anything like

Hiking up the valley from Island Lake is what I envisioned what most of the trail-less portions would entail.  A wide granite valley with pockets of meadows at the bottom made for enjoyable hiking and easy navigation, and thankfully little snow. I continued up the valley now with a positive attitude. Making great time I hit the highpoint between Island and Wall Lake by 9:30 AM. Looking up, I felt no threat of another storm anytime soon. From the pass I encountered a steep gully of snow that led down, to dangerous to descend I traversed another 50 yards to the left, found another mellower snow slope and followed it down to another patch of green below. Continuing down to towards Wall Lake I followed along stream through some thick brush in places, but nothing too annoying. Nearby the lake I encountered a large group of about 8 heading up the valley, we talked for a bit. I asked them about the best way around Wall Lake and where to catch the trail again at Cook Lakes. They also recommended a spot at Cook Lakes that had its very own beach. I crossed a river and made my way around the East side of Wall Lake, then before the end of the lake headed left over a knoll that gently led right down to Cook Lake.

I camped at the south end of Cook Lake up 50 yards above the wake in the forest with a charming beach below.  It was only noon and it was nice for the first time on the trip to shut it down.  I spent the evening reading, relaxing, and took a dip in the frigid waters. Swarms of mosquitoes were in the area and I made sure the head net was on, and all exposed skin covered as much as possible. That evening I boiled some water for my nightly freeze-dried dinner, and even kept my head net on in between bites.

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