Overview:  Off to Alaska!  After Landing in Anchorage we began with 10 Days of an ambitious on land itinery driving in every direction from Anchoage. This was followed up by 8 days of  elegance on a princess cruise through inside passage  Whittier, AK to Vancover, BC. The first stop was up north to Denali National Park where we would take the bus to the end of the road and camp at Wonder Lake camp ground. From Denali we headed to Talkeetna for a night, then a backpacking trek up into the Talkeetna mountains via the Gold Mint Trail. Then we drove farther north to check out the easily accessible Mansurka glacier. Then we drove south of Anchorage to one of our favorite towns of Seward, AK. Here we spent two nights, one in a state run backcountry cabin high above the city. Next, it was the long drive to the end of the road in Homer, AK. Our last night before meeting up with the cruise gang we spent in another state run backcountry cabin on the lakeshore of Edlutna Lake. Next, we met up with everyone on the cruise ship with our family and friends. Arriveing in Anchorage we did not waste any time hitting the road as a local saying goes, " The wonderful thing about Anchorage is that it is only 20 minutes from Alaska."

Movie - Coming Soon

Map:

Here is an overview of where we went/ how we got there / what we did at certain areas

              Yellow = Road

               Red = National Park Bus

               Magenta = Plane

               Green = Backcountry Tent / Cabins

               Blue = Cruise ship

Day 1

Anchorage /  Denali National Park

Arriving in AK were pleasantly surprised picking up our rental car with a free upgrade to a new Camery with 1200 miles on it. 1st stop was REI to pick up maps / stove / sleeping pads / bear spray / and other misc. stuff we did not have the room to bring on the airplane. Then we hit the road for a 200 mile drive to Denali.

It took no time for our first bear sighting - About 1 hour into the drive we spotted a big black husk moving across the road quickly moving into the brush. The drive was very scenic as we made our way through Denali State park. All the peaks had a dusting of snow at the higher elevations. The mountain of Denali itself could not be seen as the weather was cloudy with a few showers.

Entering the park, we camped at Riley Creek campground. They got pounded with solid  rain the previous week and it was damp and cool, a fire was quickly started. One nice perk about being in Alaska near the summer solstice - It is 11:45 and it is still plenty of light out.

Day 2

Denali National Park

The weather broke and we awoke to crystal blue sky's - Fantastic.  Up early we drove to the nearby visitor center where we would pick up the camper bus....on the way another black bear crossed directly in front of us across the road. we got our coffees at the visitor center and boarded the camper bus for the 5 hour bus ride across the park to the roads end. Wonder Lake is at the end and their is really no facilities, just a campground. They will not let you drive on the park road yourself so you have to reserve a ticket on a park bus - We were on the camper bus which was better than the "tourist bus" as ours was not nearly as full and full of people that were actually going to experience the parks backcountry with an overnight stay deep inside.  The bus tour reminded me so much of our safari through Africa's Serengeti,  Denali is basically the Serengeti of North America. Everyone had their eyes pealed taking in the views while constantly searching for wildlife. When something was spotted the bus would pull over.

 Tundra plains of Denali

Classic Denali views

 Sleeping fox

 As we passed through the  tundra valleys the gigantic peak of Denali could be seen rising in the distance. Even our bus driver was excited and was rushing us to get to this viewpoint where we could see the mountain from top to bottom from this high point in the road. This was a few miles before Elisen visitor center. We all got our and took in the views of certainly one of the most impressive sights to be seen in North America.

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Denali  is the North Americas highest mountain  at 20,320 ft . It towers above the plains at 18,000 ft of vertical relief.

 Later that day we arrived at Wonder Lake campground. "Hope everyone has brought their head nets,"a ranger greeted us as we unloaded the bus. Mosquitos were voracious with one even getting my lip. Each site had 5- Star views of the Alaska range. The range runs for 600 miles of glacier-covered mountains and tundra. The top of Denali could not be seen at this time but it did not matter as the rest of the range was a panorama postcard for the eyes.

View from Wonderlake campsites

 After setting up camp I decided to  hike the McKinley bar trail a few miles until it reached the Mckinley river. Sam stayed back and camp and relaxed. It was a bit unnerving hiking solo through some sections of dense brush-  the thought of the hundreds of grizzly bears in the park is always present in the back of my mind.

 McKinley River. You can ford the river and keep going 16 miles all the way to McGonalgall pass - a trip for another time perhaps

The Bar Trail leds to the Mckinely River.

Zoom of the Alaska range horizon

 During the bus ride earlier that day I asked our bus driver if he recommended a flight tour of the mountain. "Yes, you come all the way up here and you got to do it. I have done it 3 times." he replied. He then told us about how they do it out of Kantishna just a few miles past Wonder Lake. I had no idea they did flight tours inside the park. The weather was as good as its been in 2 weeks and just the sight of the mountain and range still 30 miles away is spectacular- I was sold. We did not know if we would be able to get a spot so we took the bus to the airstrip. Luckily for us he fit us in later that night on the after dinner flight at 8:00 pm. Sam volunteered to sit up front in as co-pilot.

 Looking east at AK tundra plains

Braids of a river

 Once a large glacier perhaps?

As the plane lifted we headed straight towards Denali. The tour would take loop us all the way around the mountain. Looking into the Ruth Amphitheatre our pilot banked the wing, straightened out and the whole front window of the plane -looming much higher than us- was filled up by Mt. Foraker. We were flying at 12,000 ft. So at any given moment you would look over and the peak was still towering another 8000 ft above us. Other mountains including Mt Hunter and Foraker were also amazing.

 Mt Huntington - I think

 As we  flew around the peak we flew along the Wickersham Wall, our pilot told us some of the history of the mountain and how it was first climbed by a group from Harvard. Then we were looking directly down on base camp for the popular route of the West Buttress. A little colony in the center of a glacier see of white.

West Buttress climbers route

  As we returned back nearing the runway the pilot asked if Sam feet could touch the petals. "No I cant" she replied. He responded, "It will be your job to hold onto the stick then." As Sam guided us to the runway with one final pull back of the stick we touched down. Wow! We stepped out of the plane just about overwhelmed with the images we just saw. Inspiring to see the mountain so up close maybe I will spend more time on it someday.

 Since we took the after dinner flight tour we had no ride back to the campground. No worries about it getting dark we walked along the road back and made the best of it soaking up the views. A classic end to one of the best days ever!

The campground is located at the far edge of Wonder Lake

 Day 3

Denali N.P / Talkeetna

 The next morning we were up early to catch the 6:30 AM bus back out of the park. On the way out we saw a golden eagle, a fox, caribou and a grizzly bear with cubs.

Making tea at the visitor center on the drive out.

Grizzly Bears from a distance

We arrived to the town of Talkeetna. The town is where the climbers come to fly to and from the mountain and comes to life each summer. We stayed the night in a camper bus that sits right outside that Talkeetna hostel and the price was right at $35 dollars a night. The important thing was not where we were staying but that we were able to have a hot shower and get some laundry done at the hostel. One of the other guys staying there is a guide just back from 20 days on the mountain. I find myself reminding Sam very frequently of the luxury portion (aka cruise) that will be coming at the end of the trip because this certainly was not it.

The VW bus we slept in was touted as the "best nights sleep in Alaska"

  Day 4

Talkeetna / Gold Mint Trail

 Slept in and got breakfast at the Roadhouse in downtown Talkeetna. Sat a table with a group of retires that rode their motorcycles all the way up from the states, and were clearly loving every minute of their trip. From there it was back on the road and tonight our destination was a one night backpacking trip along the Gold Mint Trail near the town of Palmer. The fist 5 or so miles was easy and the trail in great condition. It made its way along the bottom of a large glacier valley.

Beavers and Dam

Continuing down the valley. Notice the engineering marvel of the beaver pond on the left

Trail still in good condition at this point

It is a classic glacier carved U-shaped valley

The trail continues along the Little Susitna River. At about mile 6 the trail got "AK" on us. Some sections required bushwhacking and some leaps across muddy pools.

The trail then steepened as we were now heading up out of the above the valley. Then the trail turned into a scramble across boulders. At this point Sam stayed while I went up ahead to see if the Mint Hut was nearby. I did eventually located the Mint Hut. So I then headed back, gave Sam the heads up and we decided to make camp. Camp is perched on a bench and can look across much of the terrain back down the valley we hiked through.  Looking around we are pretty much being swallowed up by the valley with a constant roar of a waterfall high above. Good news was as we ate dinner their was not nearly as many mosquitos as Denali and they were so big that is was no challenge to swat them.

 Day 5

Gold Mint Trail / Mansurka Glacier / Palmer River Camp

I got up the next morning and headed up the scramble from camp to do some further exploring of the Mint Hut and the upper reaches of the valley.  I did a loop up to the mint hut and then continued about 400 ft above then around a knoll back down. I had a good time out roaming around for an hour or so. Got back, somehow got Sam out of her cozy bag and made breakfast before breaking camp.

Again the first 4 miles from camp was a pain in many spots with deep mud and overgrown. Definitely should have had on my thicker boots and gaiters. The last 5 miles back to the car was an easy stroll with the sun shining the whole way.  From the trailhead we drove up the road to Hatcher Pass and the mine, just a few miles away, but now in a complete downpour. So instead of checking it out we headed into town and got a tasty lunch at La Fiesta.

 From Palmer we headed North on the Glenn Highway to check out the Mansurka glacier. Pulling up the a building they make you pay a $15 dollar a person fee and you must sign a liability waiver. The parking lot is basically right at the toe of the glacier then you are free to head up on the ice and explore through the nooks of ice. It was a steady drizzle and I spent lots of time taking pictures and enjoying the feeling of being in an alien world. Sam detoured by the rain headed back as I continued deeper. I think some tourists saw me and then more started heading back in behind me.

Off across the ice

Heading deeper

Rocks and the deep blue ice

GGlacier Pool

  Due to the rainy weather we did not want to stay at the campground nearby so we headed back to Palmer which ended up being a good decision. our campground here is very nice showers and all the amenities you can want with the town center very close by. As I write this I am sitting by the campfire at 11:30 pm with plenty of light. My body feels tired  after a 10 mile morning on the trail and an afternoon of glacier exploration. Days can be as long or short as you like and we continue to make the most of our time here.

 Day 6

Palmer / Seward / Harding Ice Field Trail

 As we passed through Anchorage the road then hugs the shore of the Turn-Again Arm.  I have been telling Sam the one hike here in AK that I will make sure we save for a good weather day is the Harding Ice Field trail. Well, as we neared Seward the clouds completely cleared. It was 2 pm and the hike was on as we pulled up to the Exit Glacier parking lot. After eating lunch and a brief stop at the visitor center we began the hike. There was no shortage of "this is bear country signs" and to be prepared.

 Guidebook Recommendation:  While viewing the toe of the Exit Glacier that this is a good chance to #1 teach your kids about global warming and #2 about natural selection as many tourists have been killed when approaching the glacier as the ice calves on them.

 The trail is 8 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 3000 ft so as we headed into the forest it was not long before it began its steady climb up. The first two miles climb through some dense areas of brush. At this point a Japanese couple was approaching us coming down and they looked a bit shaken. He exclaimed, "There is a black bear just around the bend. We surprised it on the trail and it bluffed charged as it reared off the trail at the last moment." Obviously as Sam and I continued up I made sure to make lots of noise and had the bear spray ready over the next quarter mile. We never saw him. The as the trail skirts the Exit Glacier it begins to emerge above tree line seen here.

Looking back down the trail a the valley below

Many pictures were taken of the cracks in the Exit Glacier as it poured down from the Ice Field above.

 We crossed a false hill at the top and the we could see the true end of the hike. After crossing a few large snow patches we made it to the overlook. There is was 300 sq miles of ice. At that sight the trail earned legendary status as one of Americas Top. The size of it and how far it stretches in the distance was spectacular. We spent the next hour walking around the area taking photos, but also made sure I took some time to just stop and take it in like the many others kickin back up here.

A small band of clouds enters the scene leaving an array of shadows on the ice.

Wandering around

Zoom of Exit Glacier

It was late in the evening now and we began to head back down the trail.

  As we are walking through the alpine field, Sam in front of me stops. I then look up and see. A grizzly walking directly up the trail, with a family with 2 toddlers! The family huddles together as the bear makes his way closer. He then looks at them with no interest and veers off the trail continuing down the slope.  The family at this time separates into 2 groups- probably not a good idea - as dad and daughter slowly continue down the trail.

The bear continues to head towards us but still not too concerned yet, although if he comes any closer we will have to leave the trail and head up the slope.

 The bear over the next 10 minutes makes his way towards the glacier and traverses along it.

 Its about 8PM at this point and the cracks in the glacier really start to come alive with its hues.  When we eventually caught up with the family, I asked if his heart has slowed down yet and how close the Grizzly got?"  "15 feet," he replied.

Where the Harding Ice Field meets the Exit Glacier

 Another animal sighting. Coyote or wolf? I am thinking a large coyote. We got back to the car at 9PM and drove in Seward.

DAY 7

Seward / Clemens Memorial Cabin

  When we checked into the Moby Dick hostel she told us that our room was going to be in another building down the street. We had a small little house all to our selves.  You never know what you are going to get with hostels and this was about as good as it gets. We were woken the next morning by the cleaning lady at 11pm. Sam and I were both in a foggy daze. Both worn down after hiking 10 miles back to back for the last 3 few days and long drives in between.

Seward

After getting some coffee from downtown we headed to the Sea Life center, it cost 36 million dollars and was built after the Valdez oil spill. Guidebook said that it was not to be missed, but I was not so impressed by being in Alaska and seeing animals penned up. So we drove to the end of the road to the Caines Head trailhead. It was a 2 mile hike out to a point. It was an open beach and enjoyable to wander around with views across the bay.

As we are walking on the beach, 2 bald eagles soar over our heads. After the hike it was back to the city for some lunch.

 Still tired, it was hard to motivate - but I had a backcountry forest cabin reserved for the night and knew it was going to be good so a short drive out of town we hit the trail with our backpacks for another backcountry outing. The trail like many begins at the bottom of the valley and heads up above timber line. Up on the ridge out of the forest the land opens up to idyllic views.  To get to the Clemens cabin the trail switch backs and we head on top of the ridge in the opposite direction towards Seward.

Ridgeline on the way to the cabin

 The cabin sits at the end of the ridge with views a birds eye view down to the bay and Seward below. Dinner was made on a flowered slope nearby. My favorite evening of the trip so far kicking back thinking about the last 2 days.

Day 8

Lost Lake / Homer

 The next morning I got up early to hike farther up the trail from the cabin to Lost Lake. As the trail climbed up through the flowered meadows it then continues along the ridge that was simply a joy to walk. I caught up with another hiker and hiked with him for the remainder of the hike to the lake. He was a 9th grad math teacher on a massive road trip- drove all the way from San Antonio, Texas.

Looking back towards Seward on the Lost Lake Trail.

  At lost lake I continued off trail along the shore taking a few pics of the vivid reflections. The mosquitos were- I cant believe this, but just as bad if not worse than Wonder Lake.  We still had a long drive ahead of us this day to Homer so I kept a quick pace back to the cabin where I found Sam reading nearby.

As we hiked under the crystal blue skies- that we have been so fortunate to have the last week. Back at the car, we set off on the long drive to Homer.

 In Homer we spent some time at the Salty Pig on the spit. I talked with some Germans in a bar called Dougans and who was filming for a type of documentary show on Stella- a German that was the 1st to discover Alaska. But my lonely planet states it was first discovered by a Vegus Barring from Russia sent by Peter the Great. Not to much to do here unless you take a fishing tour, so we just hung out in a few pubs for the evening.

Day 9

Homer / Eluckna Lake

 We stayed the night the Homer Hostel which we were not very impressed with. The blueberry pancakes we made that morning were good though. Hitting the road back north we picked up a hitchhiker- she worked for a company taking pictures of rafters down the class V river near Seward. That would be fun I thought, but we had a reservation that night at another Forest Cabin near Anchorage.

At the parking lot their was a stand that rented mountain bikes. This was great because now we could bike the trail along the lake to the cabin. The road ran along the turquoise lake with the Chugach mountains as a fitting backdrop.

 Views en route along the lake

 It was an easy 3 mile ride to the Yuudiya Creek cabin. The cabin location is stellar, right on the water, fire pit, and a rocky beach to hang out on.

View from the cabin's beach - what an evening. Weather still fantastic as always....

 The next morning we took short bike ride another few miles along the lake. This would be our last day and we were exited to see our family today and tour Alaska from the comforts of a cruise ship.  All the planning that went into the previous 10 days was a huge success. We really got a chance to see the Alaska backcountry in its finest. What a place.

Family at the Anchorage airport.

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