Overview:  The John Muir Trail, it is known as one of the most inspiring and scenic treks in the Sierra Nevada mountains if not the world.  It runs 220 miles along the crest of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range.  It starts in Yosemite Valley and culminates at highest point in the continental U.S., the 14,496 ft summit of Mt. Whitney.  The trail travels the length of 3 national parks, one national monument, and two wilderness areas.  Traveling North to South the trail passes through mile after mile of scenic high country with many passes to overcome.  Over the coarse of the trail we ascended a total of 46,700 ft, over 1 1/2 times the height of Mt. Everest.  The trek was not to see how long we could live off freeze dried food.  Nope... It was time to become fully immersed for 19 days in this mountainous range John Muir called, "The Range of Light."

 Trip Video:   "On the JMT 2007"     Part 1      and     Part 2

Due to being one week late for the permit application a few months back in March, I would have to try for a walk-up permit.  I was up at the permit office over 2 hrs early at 5:30 AM.  Two groups of JMTers already were there. The permit station opened at 8 and I soon had the 19 day permit in hand, we would be leaving tomorrow.  We spent the rest of the day biking around the valley and enjoyed the craziness of Camp Curry.

Day 1

Yosemite Valley to Half-Dome

"It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter." ~ John Muir

As we drove to the trailhead Half Dome shot straight up above, that's where we were heading.  We were on our way with the first steps of the hike and soon ran into the others that also got walk up permits the previous day, Steve, Matt and Dave.  It was a low snow year and little water was coming off Nevada Falls. The good of this lack of water is that I saw one mosquito the whole day.

 The view of half dome before reaching the chains looks like a vertical climb.  Sam and I grabbed a pair of gloves and started up.  About 1/3 of the way up Sam turned around.  She needed more time to watch other people do it before gaining the confidence. I came back down after taking a brief look at the top and said, "Are you sure you don't want to give it 1 more go?"  Sure enough Sam flew up the chains with no problem. 

Views were fabulous as expected even with smoke filling the valley from a burn.  I just finishing hiking down from the chains when I came upon a group and said, "Damn, I'm smashed after that."  One of them then sarcastically says, "Ya and you only got 8 miles to go."  I then corrected him, " At this point I got about 205 miles to go."  We hiked another 2 miles past the JMT/Half dome junction.  We worried for a bit that we would not be able to find any water.  The first creek we crossed was bone dry.  Finally I found a spot and set up camp and then my spirits dropped.... I did  not have the top to my fuel bottle.  I bought a larger bottle for the trip and did not transfer over the pump top.  Luckily there were some campers nearby that kindly let me borrow their stove to boil some water for dinner.  They also had good news for me that there was a camp shop in T-meadows.  Guess we now would have to power it up there by tomorrow.  A slight change in plans, but it should not be as difficult of a day as today's 16 miles and 5,000 ft. of elevation gain.

Day 2 

Half-Dome to Tuolumne Meadows

"In every walk with nature one receives more than he seeks." ~John Muir

Today's morning was harder than expected - It was a steep ascent up to Sunrise Camp.  Lunch was at a nice spot overlooking the many peaks of Yosemite and the fin of Matthes Crest.  Past Sunrise Cathedral Peak came into view.  John Muir said when he climbed Cathedral Peak it was the first time he had been to church in California.  Once in T-Meadows we got the needed stove part.  It was a long 15 mile day and the burger finished the day off nicely.  Tomorrow would be almost a down day of only 9.5 miles and 1200 ft of elevation gain.

Day 3

T-Meadows to upper Lyell

After another high calorie meal at the food shack we hit the trail.  After the last 2 days of steady climbing we really enjoyed the gentle mellow trail up the valley.  We hiked for hrs on the soft, flat trail, much of it alongside the Lyell river.  It got hot and I jumped right on in - felt fantastic and I plan on many more midday cool downs.  After lunch we had one bout of switchbacks till reaching a footbridge in the midday heat.  For the rest of the trip we will plan on getting up early to get over any passes to take advantage of the cool mornings. Crossing the the bridge we found a beautiful spot about 1/4 mile upstream.  We got into camp by 2 and had plenty of time to relax, take a dip and do some laundry.  I feel as though we have left the last 2 days of craziness behind.

Day 4

Upper Lyell to Thousand Island Lake

All the world was before me and every day was a holiday, so it did not seem important to which one of the world's wildernesses I first should wander." ~ John Muir

Up to Donahue pass we got an early start.  We passed by a very nice high Sierra tarn about 400 ft above our camp, also would have been a wonderful site.  We also had some good views of Yosemite's highest mtn, Mt. Lyell and its glacier clinging below.  At the top of the pass we had expansive views south to some jagged peaks.  The pass was 11,000 ft.  Mammoth Mtn ski area was in the distance.  A man on the trail passed and said, "You both look much to clean to be backpacking." Not bad for 40 miles into the trip.

We left Yosemite and entered Ansel Adams Wilderness.  A bit down the trail I turned to Sam and said how surprised I was not to see many wildflowers on the trip so far.  Sure enough the next few miles on the way to Island Pass the trail was blanketed with flowers of all colors.  Lots of water falls like a Japanese tea garden, it was very peaceful through here.

We arrived at Thousand Island Lake by 2 pm - not that it matters any.  Quite a spot, the beauty unchanged since 4 years ago when we were last camped here, but much has changed in our lives.  Evening fell and I found a good rock to store our bear sacks up on.  When picking up our permit for the trip the ranger did warn us of a problem bear in this area and to try to avoid it.

Soon after dark, Sam hears a bear brush by our tent, I jump out looking for him.  He sticks his head up about 20 ft away near the food stash.  I yell and grabbed some rocks to throw.  He was not scared at all.  Finally after a rock or two he takes off.  Some nearby campers about 100 yards away yell over to me to find our what is going on. I yell back that there was a bear.  Sure enough 5 minutes later the bear strolls through their camp and takes a sack of food and medicine along with it.  It was not a good night of sleep knowing the bear could come back at any time.  Later that day I found out the bear also made the rounds at nearby Garnet Lake and got more food.

Day 5

Thousand Island Lake to Reds Meadow

"One can make a day of any size and regulate the rising and setting of his own sun and the brightness of its shining." ~ John Muir

  Mt Banner looked magnificent as always that next morning and we began a long day on the trail.  Over 16 miles of quite undulating terrain.  Up a couple of hundred feet then down to a lake - rinse and repeat.  We were quite beat the last few miles and were more than ready for Red's Campground amenities.

 Everyone that I met getting their permits in Yosemite seemed to be here at the Reds Meadow campground.  Steve and Dave, father son combo, Renee and Jean pre-med students from Oregon and a few more. The drive in campground is just west of Mammoth ski resort and best yet were its free thermal heated showers. Hot! Then a much needed fill up at the Mulehouse Cafe. Burger washed down with a 32 oz soda, milkshake and a beer.  Body needs all the cals it can get.  A little something is starting to move in and we get a few drops of rain.

Day 6

Reds Meadow to Purple Lake

"Until he extends the circle of his compassion to all living things, man will not himself find peace. ~ John Muir

 Back on the JMT, the first 2 miles were through a section that burned down in 1992.  The whole crew all left the cafe that morning at the same time and the miles were flying by.  Until... a drop... soon a steady downpour of rain. 

We continued on as the trail skirted a massive valley on our right for the whole day.  Nice wide open views.  The rain subsided for a bit, but then it all came back with a furry.  Lightning blasting from all sides, we hunkered down while getting pelted with marble sized hail.  Head down it was one of those moments you just want to be over ASAP.  Steve replied, "Now this is a trip we will remember."  We had 2 more miles to go- soaked head to toe at this point.

 We made it to camp and put up the tent as quickly as possible as it looked like another wave might come through.  Other than the weather we felt strong during our 13.8 mile day.

Day 7

Purple Lake to Cliff Camp

"Keep close to Nature's heart . . . and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean." ~ John Muir

Today was very interesting.  When we left camp clouds were already starting to form so I knew we could be in for more trouble.  We took some pictures around Lake Virginia which was very scenic with many peaks around.  From there it was many switchbacks down to Tully Hole and then to no surprise; time to head back up all the lost elevation to Squaw Lake.

 By the time we got to Squaw Lake at noon it was raining lightly and we heard a few distant booms.  Not wanting to try to make it over Silver Pass with possible lightning on the top we put up the tent and decided to have lunch and wait and see.  After about 3 hrs, the clouds were still jet black but no real threat action yet.  So we went for the pass.  Soon we were on top with fab views all the way back North to Mt Ritter and Banner.  Rain and lightning could be seen in the distance striking down, but thankfully many miles away.

 Heading up Silver Pass, It might be blue sky behind me, but it was another story to the East.  We quickly headed up and over.

Wildflowers along Silver Pass Lake

 Knowing we wanted to make the 9:45 VVR ferry the next morning we headed farther down the valley.  We are now about 4.5 mi away and found an interesting camp site perched on a granite slab high above pocket meadow.  Its a shear drop off.  Tomorrow will be about as close as we will get on this trip to having an off day of hiking.  We both continue to feel good and enjoy each day as it comes.

Day 8

Vermilion Valley Resort

 We were sitting at 8:45 waiting for the VVR ferry pickup. Then.. sure enough it is docking about 1/2 mile away.  We grabbed our stuff and luckily they did not leave without us. Thanks Dave!  VVR was sweet.  Hit the wallet hard also with a $275 bill.  Easy to do when you can enjoy this rare treat of the finer things in life like a cold one, shower, bed and a roof over your head.  Jim the owner had his hands on the stop watch to make a satellite call, two dollars a minute.  We also mailed ourselves a resupply of food here before the trip.  From here, all the way to Whitney, it is all true wilderness with no options to mail food and resupply.  No campgrounds or food shacks every few days.  We loaded up our packs with 10 days of food.

Due to some serious blisters over the 112 miles from Yosemite, Steve and Dave seen here end their JMT trek.  Renee's partner also was ending the trip here so Renee and Johan joined up and we headed out as a group of 4. 

Day 9

VVR to Marie Lake

"As age comes on, one source of enjoyment after another is closed, but Nature's sources never fail. Like a generous host, she offers her brimming cups in endless variety, served in a grand hall, the sky its ceiling, the mountains its walls, decorated with glorious paintings and enlivened with bands of music ever playing." ~ John Muir

 We started the day off right with a full breakfast, but the joy did not last long.  Back out on the trail we faced the dreaded Bear Ridge.  Switch backs to no end up a forested slope.  It took all morning to finally top out.  Not to mention the added weight of our full packs.  The first time I slung it over my shoulder that morning I thought, "Damn its going to be a long 13 miles today."  The next 2 days would be my least favorite days on the trail so far, took 0 pictures until reaching Marie Lake.  It was lots of work to get back up to the high country.

 Marie Lake was almost worth the long day of heavy packs. ALMOST!  It is quite a lake with the Seven Gables rising up to the East and several other pyramid looking mtns in the distance.  We camped along the lake shore and enjoyed dinner together on a large flat granite rock.  The moon rose over the rock wall to the East as we finished dinner.

Day 10  

Marie Lake to Franklin Meadows

We dropped down after an easy climb up Seldon Pass.  From there it was a ways down towards Muir Trail Ranch.  I believe this is the lowest point we will be till the end of the trip.  As we reached our low point we started to work our way up towards Piute Junction and boy was it hot. We pushed a bit further through a canyon with green tinted rock walls and found a spot amongst the trees in Franklin Meadows. 

Me, Johan, Sam, and Renee entering Kings Canyon National Park

Day 11  

Franklin Meadows to Evolution Lake

"All the world lies warm in one heart, yet the Sierra seems to get more light than other mountains.""~ John Muir

 Finally back up again in the high country!  Just before reaching Evolution valley we passed a man coming in the opposite direction. He gave us a taste of what was to come when he commented, "This valley is my favorite place on earth." McClure Meadow had a panoramic view of the peaks in the distance, a meandering stream, meadow, the whole bit, can' think of a thing it's missing.  The man in the clouds did a good job round here.  After a peanut butter and cracker lunch at McClure Meadow we continued on up about 1200 ft to Evolution Lake.

McClure Meadow

 Evolution Lake, a mountain paradise up here.. inspiring terrain that makes me eager to rise tomorrow to continue to travel through these surroundings.  The simple joy of finding out what will be around the next bend is in full affect.

Evolution sunset

 Day 12

Evolution Lake to Le Conte Canyon

"Wander here a whole summer, if you can. Thousands of God's wild blessings will search you and soak as if you were a sponge, and the big days will go by uncounted." ~ John Muir

This morning we said our goodbyes to Renee and Johan as they are up early and pushing for a 20 mile day.  Sam and I are sticking to our schedule leaving us with a 14 mile day. Good hiking with you Guys!!

A spectacular day spent climbing up through the stark high elevations of evolution basin.  Each lake we passed is named after Muir's daughters.  Helen and Wanda.  It was the first time on the trip where I felt truly immersed deep in the backcountry.  The nearest road in any direction is days away.

 Sam kept a strong pace up to Muir Pass.  A really neat stone shelter is built on top.  Up and over we dropped into Le Conte Canyon.

 Le Conte Canyon is nothing less than towering granite walls looming 5000 ft above.  A mix of the Grand Canyon walls with Yosemite granite.  As with most days we passed quite a few people on the trail, most with big smiles blessed to be out here.

Day 13

Le Conte Canyon to Palisade Basin

After breaking camp we resumed the walk down the canyon.  Slightly downhill, sun illuminating the massive walls, air chisp as could be, it was one of those moments that only travelers on foot will witness.  One granite tower in particular was hard to take your eyes off as you walked, like it wanted the respect of your constant gaze.

 Later that same day we hit the "Golden Staircase."  It was a trail up a steep, long section of granite to get to the Palisade Lakes.  It took its toll on us in the Mid-day heat.  I took a dip in the river, then laid out in the sun.  Bad idea.  20 min later that first step back on the trail, pack felt like it was full of granite and my feet made of lead.  But there is always that carrot on the stick.  Now we are kicking back at a fantastic camp up above the Palisade Lakes.  To find this spot I followed a river by the trail that flows down to the lakes.  It is just above a wonderful cascade. 

 The Alpine Glow illuminating the surrounding peaks of the palisades. For the next few days it will be one pass after another.  Mather, Pinchet, Glen and Forester.  Sam and I both have the feeling the trail will not let down her guard and will push us physically and mentally till the end.

Day 14

Palisade Basin to Lake Majorie

"Who could ever guess that so rough a wilderness should yet be so fine, so full of good things. One seems to be in a majestic domed pavilion in which a grand play is being acted with scenery and music and incense, all the furniture and action so interesting we are in no danger of being called on to endure one dull moment. God himself seems to be always doing his best here, working like a man in a glow of enthusiasm."   ~John Muir   

We got an early start and were in the shade for the whole ascent up Mathers Pass.  The walls to our right were glowing so bright from the sun the rocks in the shade had a yellow cast on them.  From the camp at 11,000 we made it to the top of Mathers in under 2 hrs.  From there it was glorious stroll though Upper Basin, I was loving this stretch and the pics were snappin.

Showers hit as soon as we hit the Kings River.  We continued on and today's camp is situated just below Majorie Lake.  It is a good view back a the land we traversed today.  It was a quite wild stretch as we only saw 1 other person on the trail.

Day 15

Lake Majorie to Rae Lake

"In all excursions, when danger is realized, thought is quickened, common care buried, and pictures of wild immortal beauty are pressed into the memory, to dwell forever." ~ John Muir

It was one of our longest days on the trail.  It was 15 miles and we did not reach Rae Lake until about 5 pm.
 

We were up to the top of Pinochet Pass in 1 hr 15 min from camp.  Its always a good feeling topping out on a pass.... And for your reward, another horizon stretching out to explore.  We made our way deep into this valley on the way to Woods Creek.

 It was a long decent down to Woods Creek.  We took a break once arriving and had the only hot lunch of the trip. We needed it as we had traveled this strech of trail before and knew it was a steady up.  I can really picture the whole sierras as one range now, I had been on many sections of the JMT before, and we hit some familiar trail once again.

 Finally settled, our site is nothing short of amazing, I'm already calling it one of the best of the trip.  Its good to be back to Rae Lakes, no question it is another highlight of the Sierra Range.

Day 16

Rae Lake to Forester Pass Camp

You may be a little cold some nights, on mountain tops above the timber-line, but you will see the stars, and by and by you can sleep enough in your town bed, or at least in your grave."    ~ John Muir

The routine continues, up a pass to start the morning off.  We had been up Glen Pass quite recently just a few years back on the Rae Lakes loop, up on top I could tell others were just as glad as I was the first time up there.  

 It was a steady ascent up Bubbs Creek from Vidette Meadow. The Bubbs Creek valley is a classic U shape, carved out by a massive glacier. Our camp is at about 11,300 ft and nearby a vertical wall of granite, waterfall cascading down its face, a bit like the Alps.

Day 17

Forester Pass to Tyndall Tarn

We I only went out for a walk, and finally concluded to stay out 'till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in."  ~John Muir

 It was a cold night and brisk morning.  The climb up Forester was well graded trail.  We got cell phone reception on top of Forester Pass for the first time of the trip.  It was good to talk to my brother, here's the view Mike!  Quite a trail down the other side of Forester, must have been a ton of work to build up enough rocks to make a trail into a vertical wall of rock.

The tip of Whitney is in sight!

 After reaching Tyndall creek we decided to move camp up another 1/2 mile to a nearby tarn.  It was a good choice as I enjoyed a late afternoon swim. 

Day 18

Tyndall Tarn to Guitar Lake

"Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while care will drop off like autumn leaves." ~John Muir

 It was our last full day in the wilderness before we encounter the swarms of day hikers doing Whitney tomorrow.  Like always we had breakfast, oatmeal and hot chocolate, and were on the trail before 8 AM.  We had clear views of the Black Kawea range and the Kern canyon on our right.

 From Crabtree Meadow we were now headed straight for Whitney seen here.  The closer I get to the mountain the more I feel grateful to have spent these last few weeks in the wilderness.  A sense of accomplishment now is sinking in as we approach our last nights camp.  Sam is feeling a bit overwhelmed at the size of Whitney and is just about ready to leave the trail.

 Our high camp at Guitar Lake was an amphitheater  of white rock walls surrounded by a bright Chevy blue sky. An aggressive marmot wanted a piece of my last freeze dried dinner.   We talked to a Ranger that told us it would take at least 6 hours to get to the top from our camp here at Guitar Lake, no way- we would make it in 4.

Day 19

Guitar Lake to Whitney Portal

"Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain-passes. They will kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free, and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action. "      ~ John Muir

 We were up at 3:45 to break camp for the summit.  We hiked into the night beneath the stars.  We started with our headlamps on then turned them off as the night sky was bright enough to illuminate the rocks just enough in a milky glow.  Hiking a peak under the stars seems to heighten all your senses.  Take it all in I thought....this is it.

We were able to drop our packs off at the trail junction at 13,500 ft and made the last 1.8 miles to the top - feeling weightless without a pack we continued on the last stretch of the official JMT.

The JMT officially ends here, the top of Mt Whitney. We spent little time on top of the frigid summit and began our way down.  Thoughts of food, a bed, and seeing my parents filled our minds. The droves of day hikers looked like they were having one hell of a time up the 97 switchbacks, glad its all down for me. Filled with excitement at this time- being so close to finishing such a trek. We began the 10 mile hike from the top.

I could not believe it... there Sam and I were taking our last few steps on the trail.  Then I see someone that looks like my Dad and Mom one hundred yards away at the trailhead.  We take another few steps and realize its them.  What timing!! I thought we were going to have to hitchhike to Lone Pine and meet them later that day. They greeted us with champagne and we toasted to the end of the trip.  That night was filled with every splurge imaginable from pizza to ice cream. The next day my parents drove us back along good 395, as familar peaks passed I thought about each section of trail just beyond the crest.  We pulled back into Yosemite to pick up the car.  I had thoughts about completing the JMT years before making it happen and knew I had to give it a shot; what I am so grateful for is having Sam there with me leading each step of the way.

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